Miss Judy Charters
Captain Judy Helmey
"Kicking Fish Tail Since 1956!"
124 Palmetto Drive
Savannah, Georgia 31410
912 897 4921 or 912 897 3460 fax
www.missjudycharters.com
Captain Judy's Fishing Clinics
ONE INSHORE AND ONE OFFSHORE CLINIC
Inshore January 27, 2007
Offshore February 3, 2007
2007
Our inshore and offshore classes will cover special as well as the latest proven fishing techniques. Here's a list of a few of the subjects covered: What biting when and where, value of structure, rips, and shadows, (it's not what you think) rigging techniques that work, your personal bait design, live/artificial baits, new line of tackle designs for inshore and offshore by Captain Judy, and plenty of giveaways!
How to sign up!
To sign up all you have to do is call 912 897 4921, email fishjudy2@aol.com, or write to Miss Judy Charters, POB 30771, Savannah, Georgia 31410, or carrier pigeon!
Please call 912 897 4921 now for reservations, Plenty of giveaways and discounts!
INSHORE SCHOOL
January 27, 2007 Time: 8:00 AM – 2:00 PM
OFFSHORE SCHOOL
Date: February 3, 2007 Time: 8:00 AM – 2:00 PM
Place: Tubby's Tank House 2909 River Drive, Thunderbolt, Georgia 31404
Tubby's number 912 354 9040
Cost: $90.00 (included one day class, breakfast, and lunch)
Please sign up as soon as possible! There is limited entry!
Inshore Offshore
Captain Jack McGowan Captain Judy Helmey "TRICK"
Captain Judy Helmey Captain Ali Young "SNEAK" January 13, 2007 February 3, 2007
January 27, 2007
Freshies Suggestion!
My good friend Bill Vanderford expert fisherman and Outdoor writer has published his fourth book called "The New Guide to Bank Fishing on Lake Lanier" This is very good book which not only offers up some great fish catching suggestions, but also the best way to cook them. Bill Vanderforth's "old school" methods are so perfected that they work like a charm! Contact Information email: jfish51@aol.com phone: 770-289-1543 web: http://www.fishinglanier.com/ I suggest buying all of his books! It will be a great addition to your fishing library!
Saltwater Inshore Fishing Report
Captain "Wild Bill" Jarrell at Yellow Bluff
I am calling "Yellow Bluff," Miss Judy Charter's "New Frontier." Captain "Wild Bill" Jarrell has joined us and will be departing from this area offering some unbelievable fish catching opportunities. For those that have never fish this area now is your chance to do so with Captain "Wild Bill!" He has joined our inshore professional team! He has fished this area for many years! Captain "Wild Bill," has gotten not only select fishing drops down, but also the patterns in which the fish visit them. This brings me to this subject that "fishing is sort of a science!" The word science when used in regards to fishing means "knowledge that has been acquired and studied revealing facts and truths!"
Captain "Wild Bill's" fishing report
Billy Muse and David Baker fished with "Wild Bill," last week. During this trip black drum, sheepshead, trout, and red fish were caught. The biggest of the group listed was a sheepshead that weighted in at 5 pounds 8 ounces. There were many hits and misses making for some great action leading up to a "fun catching trip!"
Captain Bill hooked up a fish that was bigger that any that was landed. Although the fish wasn't landed the fight that took place is certainly worth reporting. According to the report the fish hooked up probably was a large sheepshead. The fish hit a purple back fiddler that was presented near some vertical structure made of wood. While using a braided line and the correct drag, Captain Bill was able to control his hooked fish a little better. For every foot reeled in the hooked fish took out three times a much line. Captain Bill had the drag set so that the leader wouldn't break and the hook wouldn't pull out. The fish pulled until it found another structure source in which to use to free it self. The fish quickly found the prop and made good use of getting the line tangled around it. Now you know the rest of the story!
The Power of Your Logbook!
The place that Captain Bill fished was a spot that he hadn't fished in over eight years. His used his records as the source for selecting this particular spot to fish for the day. In other words, approximately eight years previously and during this time of the year he caught fish in this area. I can't stress enough the importance of a logbook! I am happy to admit that I have over 40 years of some sort of fishing records!
Braided Line
Braided line is good, because it's abrasion resistance and it will take more direct pressure than monofilament. Braided doesn't normally stretch while monofilament does! However, there is good and bad involved. Too much drag will result in a break off either from the leader or from the fish. In other words, you need to know your line so that you won't pull the hook that it took you so long to get set!
Hooking Up a "structure hugging fish!"
When you hook up a fish that is hanging around structure, its main goal is going to be to get back to the protection zone! It has been my experience that fish that hang around or live in structure whether it's the man made type or the real thing have a very strong conviction. This means that they will always have a fixed or firm desire to return to the structure. The fact of the matter is that fish that live in this environment are stronger, because of it. Over the years I have done lots of this type of fishing, which is targeting those fish that use structure not only for protection, but also as their home base. This desire to get back to the protection is shown highly in the degree of strength used by the fish to make way! The fact of the matter is that it certainly is more of a challenge to catch a fish in this mode than it is in a schooling type surrounding. The point I was trying to make before going off into "thinking as a fish" was a simple one. To get your best chances at landing a fish that is serious about the structure that it's holding you need to "disorient them as much as you can!" Redirecting the fish's head ever so slightly by just angling your rod a little differently will accomplish this goal of disorienting your fish! This goal is accomplished by moving your rod side to side. I don't suggest doing it so fast that you offer up any slack in the line, because if you do your hooked fish will probably swim right off the hook.
Underwater Structure made of wood!
I wanted to take a moment and go over the importance of knowing exactly what kind of structure that you are fishing over. Believe it or not but sometimes it can make a difference. Here are just few reasons! Temperature of the water in regards to what attaches and grows on it. What a surface feels like when a fish feeds off it. Noises produced when the fish or your tackle bumps a certain surface. Then there is the chance that fish might be like people in regards to "cans, glass, and wood!"
Here's a list of some of the structure that I am talking about, which might give you an idea of where to start targeting your strongest fish! The up rights of a bridge, whether it's old, new, used, or not used. Any sort of shipwreck totally or partially submerged. Bottom areas that are heavily concentrated with lots of live oysters. Upright dock pilings or those that have fell in the water, which provide a surface for barnacles/oyster/mussels to grow. Lets say, you are riding at low tide and see a partially exposed structure. I suggest making a note, because there could be some feeding activity once the ride covers the structure. This could turn out to be you personal secret fishing spot.
Captain Jack McGowan's Fishing Report along with some great suggestions!
Captain Jack McGowan of Miss Judy Charters issued the fishing report on January 16, 2007. This particular report is full of what did, what can, and what might happen in regards to a good solid fish bite. I can't stress enough the importance of a logbook that you not only personally keep, but also any additions collected from other fishermen. Entries made by you are very important for later fishing opportunities. However, add this offered up information by Captain Jack into your logbook and I can almost guarantee that your catching abilities will change drastically!
A warm trend, for last couple of weeks, has meant rising water temperatures. This means shrimp are still available. Despite shrimp in the rivers only Bandy's and Larry's Bait & Tackle are opened for business. Shrimp can be plentiful one day and gone the next, despite the abundance today. It's likely shrimp could become scare in the next few weeks. If your fishing trip is dependent on shrimp you might want to the call ahead to make sure shrimp are available. Bandy's number is 912-354-6444. The last number for Larry's is 272-7339. Larry does carry live finger mullet
when he's able to find them. Finger mullet is excellent bait for those targeting stripers!
Fishing success last week has been mixed, small tides and gentle drifts helped some types of fishing and hindered fishing dependent on moving water. Small tides and gentle drift can mean a slow sea trout bite. On the other hand even though action was slow there were several large
sea trout landed as well as lots of small ones. Some fishermen have limited out while most were catching some fish. With water temperature in the high 50's to low 60's and fetish fish (small fish that steal a bait) are out and about.
Small tides and slow drifts were ideal for sheepshead fishing! As water-cools down and the bite for most fish slows sheepshead action is heating up! Sheepshead for the most part is thought of as a tricky fish to catch. On days with a slow drift the sheepshead should be a good fish to target. It's possible to not only catch quality fish, but also get some great strong pulling action. Most fishermen prefer to fish around slack water. There have been several reports of good catches of sheepshead last week.
Redfish can be found along mudflats and in spots that poise the least amount of amounts of danger from porpoises and humans. The more disturbed fish are the more likely going to seek new areas of refuge. Creeks that are rarely accessed and are holding bait can be likely spots for redfish to hold. Winter is the time of year to see large schools of reds. Large schools of fish don't necessarily mean large catches. These fish are easy to spook. This time of year clear, cold, slow moving water can make fishing challenging. Longer casts and artificial can work well!
The best artificial lures are usually soft plastics like DOA shrimp and jerk worms. Any unnatural noises can send a school of redfish scurrying. It's not unusual for winter redfish to honker down. Blind casting can and does produce fish. It has been decided by most fishermen that blind casting especially during this time of year produces more bites than sight casting! Nonetheless, be on the look out for anything unusual in the water: a push of water, bait popping out of the water, or nervous water. Likely those sights and sounds are signs of redfish. As always keep only what you intend to eat and release the rest. Going light on your take of redfish or practicing catch and release is always a good idea.
Tides for the coming are building. Could mean a good sea trout bite as tide build. Anticipate the best bite just before a front arrives and a couple of days after a front has passed. We're continuing to catch some nice sea trout and reds. Winter is a great time to target sheepshead. Striper action while not hot should produce some large fish as the winter progresses!
Captain Matt's Spotted Sea Trout "Scale Down Event!"
Captain Matt William of Miss Judy Charters has offered up some great suggestions for getting a solid winter trout hookup. Spotted sea trout especially at this time of the year are to say the least "picky pickers!' In other words, "they will gladly mouth your bait dropping it at will!" While keeping this in mind Captain Matt has shared some interesting tips!
Scale down is the word that Captain Matt used to describe his winter technique. It has been ascertained by many fishermen that the trout bite is pretty strange at this time of the year. The fact of the matter is most times we aren't even aware that we have had a bite at all. The reason being is that spotted sea trout don't hammer the bait during the cool water times as they do in the warmer conditions. So therefore it's necessary to make some changes in regards to your terminal tackle. Captain Matt calls it "Scale down!" It's time to make some notes!
According to Captain Matt, "Scale Down" means use smaller everything. This includes hooks, line, bait, and sinker. That just about covers it all in regard to catching. I might add this scaling down doesn't mean that your chances are better for a smaller fishhook up. It means, "By going smaller a smarter fish isn't going to get the red flag treatment!"
Hooks
In this section I am going to suggest just exactly what you already expected and that's use a smaller hook. Captain Matt as well as most other inshore fishermen normally uses 1/0, #1, and #2 kale hooks as their main sizes. However, during this "light bite phase" it's best to step down to these sizes: #4, #6, and even a #8 kale hook. (4 being the largest and 8 being the smallest) During this time color of the hook does seem to make a difference. During regular bite times the nickel-plated hooks are use mostly. This is due to the fact that they don't seem to rust as quickly as the others. However, during these bite times Captain Matt suggests going with the bronze colored hooks. It seems that it helps a little more in the camouflaging department. In this case, "Not only are you matching the hatch but also the latch!"
Main Line and Leader Suggestions
Your main line can be what you always have used. Captain Matt uses 20-pound test Power Pro, which is a braided line. For those fishermen out there that prefer using monofilament main line this will still work. I always suggest that you go with lighter test (12 to 20 pound test line) especially at this time. When using braided line it is always suggested that you add some sort of fluorocarbon/monofilament leader before adding on your terminal gear. I think most fishermen will agree that braided line doesn't offer up any "disappearing appeal when launched into the water!" In other words, "the fish is first attracted by the line and not your bait!" This is not going to get you a hook up unless you have perfected a way to "lasso your fish!"
Lets throw a little light on leaders. Captain Matt goes with a four-foot leader between "popping cork and hook." According to Matt it takes a little more in the watching mode to throw it properly, but it's worth it once you get your bait placed. The preferred leader size is 12 to 20 pounds. Once again I can't stress enough the importance of " lighter leaders!" This one addition of lighter leaders could make all the difference in your fish catching day.
Captain Matt's "Scale down" rig goes something like this:
He uses a popping cork to deliver his bait offering. To the cork he ties on his four feet of leader. To the leader he ties on his #4 or #6 kale hook. On the leader about 15 inches above the hook, he crimps on a 1/16-spit shot. (Give or take weight) This small sinker addition helps persuade your bait to stay low meaning somewhat under the cork.
Captain Matt's has a set up, which I suggest that you consider using. What seems so insignificant might make all the difference, but you have to believe in what you are using! Captain Matt's cork set up goes like this: He adds to the popping cork a ½ to ¾ ounce sinker. The sinker that he adds is what is called a "rubber core sinker." It's an in-line style sinker that is easily crimped on. The rubber core is there to protect against line damage. However, in this case you are not crimping the sinker on your line. You are crimping it on the popping cork's shalf between the two brass balls. (Just a note: When you tie on your popping cork make sure that the plastic balls are on top and brass ones are under.) I suggest removing the plastic insert, because it's not needed for this application. The sinker that we are talking about should be called "dog eared sinker" or "the Mickey Mouse Dropper!" This all boils down to the fact that it's a sinker that looks like it has ears! Heck, I have to add in some humor. Also just knowing that it has a black plastic insert that looks like ears with help you pick it out on your own. After all some things need to be kept secret!
*The addition of the rubber core sinker to your popping cork ensures you much needed casting distance especially during windy conditions. Believe it or not but this can help add about 50 feet to your cast! During these crazy bite times the further your boat is away from the bite zone the better. After all there is good noise and bad noise!
Bait
We talked about everything in regards to holding your fish. However, to get a chance to set that hook you need some sort of bait. In this particular situation "bait size is crucial!" It's a fisherman's nature to want to go with the biggest bait in the old live well! Heck, we are all this way. I have found myself watching for that larger shrimp or mud minnow to swim by just so I could make my selection. In the case of "scale down," smaller baits are needed. So therefore all of those small mud minnows that you thought were worthless are going to be the bait of choice for this time. Hook placement is important. I suggest sticking the hook's point under the lips and out through the top of the minnow's head. Some fishermen do stick the hook through the top of the eye sockets. (Not through the eyes themselves, through the top part of the socket making what I call a "sideways hook up!") I prefer under the lip style of hooking. The best size mud minnow according to Captain Matt is 1 inch or less! Now you know the rest of the bait story!
Captain Matt's Setting of the Hook routine!
Lets assume that you have done your homework, got your rig properly put together, headed out, picked your spot, anchored up, and have cast your bait to the "bite zone!"
As was said earlier, spotted sea trout especially during this time will take the bait ever so gingerly. In fact you can get a hit and not know it for sure. I might add when using mud minnows you may never know, because the trout are hitting so light that they don't even damage your bait. However, lets assume that you have a bite, know it, and the sly trout is moving the cork. Captain Matt has the setting of the hook that he calls "reel set," which means simply reel! However, we all know for sure that when we get a bite "simply reeling" isn't going to happen. Captain Matt has these suggestions that he offers up to his customers all of the time:
Firstly he explains how the trout is going to bite, which is slow, slow, and slow. Then he suggests the "reel set method,' which does work if all you do is reel once you get a hit. The main goal is to get any slack out of your line before doing anything. During this time if you offer too much commotion your fish will drop the bait. To get the slack out you can reel or just back up, if you have enough room. Please don't back up so much that you fall out of the boat! Captain Matt remarked, "Some fishermen starting fishing on the bow, but by the time they back up their spot is on the stern!" Now you know the rest of the story!
If I have said this one time I have said it one hundred times: Please don't panic if you fall out of the boat. "Because most of the time all you have to do is to basically stand up!"
It's time to be a trapper!
How to catch a mud minnow!
It's time to break out the old mud minnow trap. As you all know most of the accessible baits in our creeks and rivers are usually long gone by now. However, due to our warm temperature we still have some life in these areas. They are just scattered a bit making it hard to cast long enough to catch your possible bait. That's why I am suggesting this form of catching. With the bait scattered it's sort of narrows our bait availability options down. We all know that when the water is on the cool side the old mud minnow don't let us down. There isn't really any other live bait around unless a few lost finger mullet or resident peanut menhaden happens by your way.
Back in the old days we had the basic all metal traps that we used. I have to admit they might have lasted a season. That is if they didn't get stepped on. There are some new ones on the market that are a little more flexible and won't rust. You guessed it they are made of plastic. I have tried them and they do work just fine in the minnow-collecting department!
To catch a Mud Minnow
To catch a minnow you have to give them what will lure them in. I have several minnows trap bait mixtures to share with you. I am sure there are a lot more out there that will probably work. Here are a few that have worked for me. Raw chicken works just fine. (Fried chicken doesn't work too well. You had best eat it.) I always like using the chicken's back. It has plenty of fat that tends to linger longer around the trap. Not only that, but once the fat slick gets going the minnows follow it right back to the trap. Another good minnow trap bait is canned cat food. This works, but don't just dump the contents of the can directly into the trap. It won't last long enough in the trap. I suggest putting some nice flowing holes in your can. It's best to place the holes where the water can flow from one side of the can to the other taking small amounts of cat food with it. This chumming method works great. Canned Spam will also bring your bait to the trap. All you have to do is to remove your Spam from its can, drop it in the old trap, and lower it to the water. In fact a can of Spam will last for several days in saltwater. (That statement alone should scare all of us!) There are plenty more combinations out there that will work, but let me leave you with one more. Once you have cleaned that fish that you just caught put all of the leftovers portions in the trap. I have seen dead fish floating in the creek, stopped to take a look, and find hundreds of these small fish eating furiously away. Now you know the rest of the story.
Location for the trap
Now that you know about the trap and the bait it's time to put it where it will get some activity. A lot of inshore fishermen have their secret spots. The good news is that you don't have to get in a boat to get to them. You need to put you thinking cap on. Here are a few examples: As you are riding down to the beach or near the shore keep your eyes out for any marsh openings and tidal creeks areas. For some reason where you have low water, which is around anything that has some sort of food you get the mud minnow build up. Make sure wherever you place your trap that it isn't pulled out of the water as the tide falls.
The good news about mud minnows is that they aren't as delicate as live shrimp. They are easily transported in a bucket. All you add is a little water. The movement while transporting should add the air you need to keep them alive. They travel very well with little water. To keep water from splashing too much out of your bucket don't fill it up to far and throw a Styrofoam dinner plate in. It will float keeping the water from being splashing out of the bucket.
To get the best results from your mud minnow all you have to do is to treat it like you do a shrimp as bait. When using the traditional trout float rig the mud minnow works best when hooked thought the lips. They cast well and stay alive much longer than a shrimp does. Popping corks with the desired length of leader along with an attached "kale hook" will also work well while using the old mud minnows. Another good application would be to use the old bottom fishing method. Put this bait on the bottom or close to the bottom and you should get some great action. This is bait that is good when it's alive and fresh dead. However, "Live and kicking" is always the best!
What a sheepshead desires is what they are going to eat!
I am always suggesting a certain kind of bait when it comes to targeting sheepshead. There is the purple back fiddler crab that is a proven bait of choice. It's best to place your hook's point in one of the crab's leg sockets. Another position is to stick the hook directly in the underneath of the crab. This makes the crab look like it swimming side to side. Another good bait is slightly steamed oysters. Once you put the oysters through this partial cooking process they can be put on a hook. It's best to place the hook's point through the heart mussel. If the oyster in question doesn't have a heart, (meaning no feelings, just kidding) I suggest wrapping or threading the meat parts on your hook as well as you can. Believe me a sheepshead won't think twice much less look at how it placed on your hook before it sucks it up. Green mussels also will work great as bait. They don't have to be cooked. Just bring along a set of pliers for cracking the shell so that you can remove the meat easier. There is one more bait that is better than and that's I have listed. And that's the bait that will work at any given time!
Kelly Sullivan attended my inshore class on January 13, 2006. He shared with me a story about a school of very hungry sheepshead. According to the report he caught his fish while suspending a live shrimp under a popping cork. The area in which he caught his fish was in about 2 to 4 feet of water, which was covered by a few live oyster rakes. From what you just read, Kelly was set up for trout and bass fishing, but found a sheepshead bite instead. According to the report, on the particular fishing day he caught trout, spot tail bass, sheepshead, and even a Spanish mackerel.
Kelly placed his hook sideways through the horn of the shrimp, which allows it to live longer and make more noise. When hooking up your shrimp this way it allows the tail to still "pop" producing that sound that draws the fish to the area. This area that Kelly was fishing was truly a target rich environment for fish, because he caught a little of everything while using a popping cork rig and live shrimp. He added one more thing that really made this fishing report stand out. While standing on the bow of his boat and looking at his anchor line he watched as a sheepshead gnawed at the submerged part of his rope! Kelly thanks for the great report! I hope that you kept that rope, because it seems it's good for more than just anchoring your boat!
Offshore Artificial Reefs
I don't want to sound like a broken record, but the sheepshead in this area in on the ‘wide open mode!" During this time of the year the largest sheepshead migrate offshore for the spawning event. These fish normally hold up at any structure that they can find within 10 to 15 miles of the shoreline making artificial reefs a great area to target this fish. After all the only type of structure between land and the man made reefs is basically sand. This catching opportunity doesn't last too long. Our sheepshead season lasts until the end of March. The rule of thumb is that when the toothy fish such as the mackerel or barracuda arrive to these offshore areas the "sheepies" head back to shore. Once making it to the main land these fish are scattered all over meaning "harder to find schooled up!" (But not impossible!)
For those that want to charter a boat so as to give this offshore fishery a try, please by all means give us a call 912 897 4921! Hope to hear from you soon!
Blue Fin Tuna
Just for the record there have been a few confirmed sightings in regards to blue fin tuna. However, the action hasn't been what it was these last past few years. It seems from reports that these fish have been scattered from the R-7 naval tower to the Betsy Ross and Eagles Nest. However, they haven't been schooling or developing any type of feeding pattern. For those that do have any information to report, please send me a report!
"Little Miss Judy Believe It or not!"
A Whale of a Tale!
Back during the whaling days, the right whale got its name from being the "right whale to kill." It had lots of pluses in regards to being the best! It was very big, offered up large amounts of blubber, and it floated to the surface once it was killed. The last so called quality, once killed it floated" being the most important to a whaling fisherman. There is another thing that I would like to add; most whales killed were as big or bigger than the vessels that hunted them!
Whales were killed by using a large harpoon, which was thrown by none other than the "ship's harpooner!" It was the harpooner's duty to make one throw and hit the right spot. It was the rower's responsibility to get the harpooner close enough to take that shot. Small boats sometimes less then 14 feet long were lowered with their harpoon man and a small group of rowers. The harpoon was tied to a rope, which was then attached to the small boat. The harpooner was to throw the harpoon at the right time so as to land in an exact spot, which was the blowhole area. According to all that I have read, this was the easiest spot to sink the large harpoon. Once the harpoon was stuck in place the rope tied to the harpoon would quickly tighten and the whale would pull the boat around until it basically died!
There were a few things that I picked up when I read this story, which was printed in one of the earlier editions of the encyclopedia, "Britannica." A lot of those that hunted whales didn't make it back to shore. In fact, there were lot of loses due to the whaling boat being over turned and the rope getting tangled before it was pulled completely out of the boat. There was supposedly this length of rope that had to be use so that the whale couldn't pull the small boat under the water. I assuming that rope was a decided length that it would take before the whale would need to surface for air. Who knows maybe they guessed at the length. So therefore if the rope were tangled before it was pulled out surely the chase boat would have been pulled under leaving the occupants bobbing in the water. Some might have survived, but only if they could swim to safety before they were attacked and eaten by the large sharks that also patrolled the whaling area. I think I made my point!
Let just assume that all that hunted made it back to the boat after the kill. They then waited until the expired whales floated to the surface. It didn't say how long this event took. Once the whales floated the mother ship pulled along side them and secured them to the vessel. Once this task was accomplished the "blubber cutters," at least that what I called them, job started.
They adorned their proper gear, jumped on top of the exposed part of the whale, and started cutting sections of blubber off. Get ready for yet another mental picture. The proper gear was described as something that they tied on the bottoms of their feet/shoes that allowed them to "hold fast" on the whale's outer skin. I'm guessing something like football, baseball, or golfing cleats.
These so called cleats would keep them for slipping off the whale while making their necessary cuts to remove the blubber. For those blubbers cutters that didn't have the proper equipment or any that lost their footing would fall directly into the ocean. This doesn't sound too bad until you read this next line. The "dogs" quickly ate those that fell into the water! The "dogs" as they were called in the book were the large sharks ripping at the parts of the whale that was in the water. At this point of the game I could only assume that those that worked the fastest at either eating or cutting, "won!" at this game.
Here's my line Now Bite My Hook!
Captain Judy
"Fish Physic!"